
Pleat the Inter-Fashionality
The Peony Pavilion & 3D Printing
2024-2025
Cantonese Opera has been listed as Intangible Cultural Heritage by UNESCO in 2009, together with Kwun Opera (listed in 2006), and Peking Opera (listed in 2010) (info.gov.hk). There are nearly 300,000 people who attended a Cantonese Opera performance in 2022 in Hong Kong, but the majority audience is aged above 50 years old (EduHK, 2023), showing a generation gap in the viewing crowd, which could gradually lead to the extinction of this cultural treasure.
This project can be viewed as the sequel followed by the Fold the Inter-Fashionality Farewell My Concubine (2017). This time, Dr Mingjing Lin and Dr Tsai-Chun Huang are going to add one extra element of Cheongsam. Clearly, different from Peking Opera and Kwun Opera, Cantonese Opera costume style is based on Cheongsam structure (Yau, 2018), which makes Cantonese Opera the perfect ground to gain Cheongsam production knowledge.
Similarly, the project is going to follow the design method, Pliable Logic (Huang) and Parametric 2.0 (Lin), from 2017 and process to combine traditional craft, cheongsam making, with modern technology, including optical fibre and 3D printing, and contemporary aesthetics to redesign the most iconic piece costumes for Cantonese Opera, The Pavilion of Peony as an inspiration to bring a novel taste to this century-old live performance.
Du Liniang
麗人熠熠
設計以杜麗娘為設計視角,她對於理想愛情不顧一切地追求,為情而死,為愛獻身。使用條條光纖從歐根紗中穿梭環繞,三維打印技術裝點袖身,好似她與夢中情人柳夢梅的聯結,如夢似幻,亦是她現實中勇於反抗封建的精神,至情至性。
The design is based on the perspective of Du Liniang, who pursued her ideal love recklessly, died for love, and sacrificed her life for love. The use of fibre optic threaded through organza and 3D printing technology to decorate the sleeve is like a link between her and her dream lover Liu Mengmei, as if in a dream, but also in reality, her courageous resistance to feudalism, the spirit of the most emotional, and sincerity.
Designer
Dr Huang Tsai-chun
Dr Lin Mingjing
Liu Mengmei
幽夢裊裊
設計以柳夢梅的視點出發,整套服裝以黑色為主色調,體現出在夢境裡的即
視感。同時更將中國傳統與現代打印技術結合,達到過去與現在碰撞的效果。
The design is based on Liu Mengmei's perspective. The entire outfit is mainly black, reflecting the sense of reality in a dream. At the same time, it combines Chinese tradition with modern printing technology to achieve the effect of a collision between the past and the present.
Designer:
Chen Yi
Cheng Sze Ki
Chan Sze Kei
Sin Hei Yau
Maid
芙蓉花影
這件服裝為杜麗娘的丫鬟—春香所設計。結合中國傳統服飾特點同時加入現代的設計元素。牡丹圖案用了3D打印融入於褲腳,下擺的粉紅色紗裙以植物染處理,呈現春香的青春與活潑。
This outfit was designed for Daiyu's maid, Chunxiang. It combines the characteristics of traditional Chinese clothing while incorporating modern design elements. The peony pattern is integrated using 3D printing on the pants legs, while the pink chiffon skirt at the hem is plant-dyed, conveying
Chunxiang's youthfulness and vivaciousness.
Designer:
Woo Sin Yu
Au Che Yiu
Yiu Ching Yau Leung Ka Yau
Garment Details
Textile Development:
The lycra material and the digital knitted pleats were stretched in the 3D printing machine. After 3D printing, the textile contraction is affected by the printed structure, creating new forms of pleating structures.
It is foreseeable that different printed structures and the stretchability of the textiles will offer new types of 3D printed pleating.
Cantonese Opera Costume integrates Cutting-edge Digital Technology, Wearable Tech, and 3D Printing
(School Learning and Teaching Development Grants 2023- 2024, School of Fashion and Textiles, The Hong Kong Polytechnic University)
“Pleat-the-Interfashionality” bridges the gap between modern and traditional, new technology and craftsmanship, expanding the realm of traditional cultural heritage and interdisciplinary development.
Design Of Entry
“Pleat-the-Interfashionality” continues our award-winning project “Fold-the-Interfashionality” from 2018. It combines technology and traditional techniques uniquely create costumes for two main characters, Li Mengmei and Du Liniang, to interpret the classic Cantonese opera “The Peony Pavilion”.
Special Features
Innovative textile materials and structures have a significant impact on the physical movements of the performers =, which is a primary focus of the project.
These costumes are created using the latest Stratasys J850 textiles 3D printer, combining versatile pleated texture and digital virtual algorithms to consider the trajectory of human body movements.
This results in garments that are soft, pliable, and conform to the body, enhancing the freedom and emotional expression of actors wearing these new costumes, aiming to inspire both performers and the audience with greater creativity.
The 6th Arts and Science International Exhibition and Symposium, Tsinghua University (2024)
Peony Pavilion, The Fashion Gallery, The Hong Kong Polytechnic University, 2024
Conference Presentation:
27th IFFTI Annual Conference at London College of Fashion, UK March 24th - 28th, 2025